the best kept secrets…

…are often discovered ‘off-the-beaten-path’ .

I complain (ahem, I mean ‘mention’ this to my hubby, the Big D, all-too-often…). It’s all about location, location, location! Well, sometimes. MY little farm shop is located on a dirt road, in the middle of nowhere in particular. I do very little marketing and rely on word-of-mouth from prior ‘happy’ customers. I also do a very limited number of fiber shows a year. I network primarily with fiber artists & gardeners. It’s becoming more difficult to do ALL the things that require getting done!! I am a perfectionist… and this adds to my frustration. It’s not difficult for me to THINK (DREAM) about new projects when I’m sitting around the house all day! hahaha

But, back to my story. Besides having a soft spot for anything furry, including my sweet little sheep and goats, I L.O.V.E. plants…strange & different plants and anything topiary-form too! Well, less than one-mile down the same dirt road from my house is the awesome greenhouse/farm of the Uhlianuk’s. The entire family has branched-off into their own specialty including twig furniture, heirloom plants & produce. My neighbors don’t advertise their greenhouses;  you’re more likely to  find them at a local upscale farmers’ markets.

I couldn’t help myself! I purchased this succulent Echeveria runyunii ‘Topsy Turvy’ for the beautiful blue-gray foliage!

Growing Conditions:

Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF – 70ºF). In winter, cool to 50ºF.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Habit and Cultural Information
Category: Succulent
Family: Crassulaceae (Stonecrops)
Origin: Mexico (North America)
Evergreen: Yes
Flower Color: Yellow & Orange
Bloomtime: Summer
Height: <1 foot
Width: <1 foot
Exposure: Sun or Shade
Drought Tolerant: Yes
Irrigation (H2O Info): Medium Water Needs
Winter Hardiness: 25-30° F

Love this lavender topiary form too!!!!! ahhhhhh.

Like I said…I just couldn’t help myself!!! Hmmm? How about a late Mother’s Day gift to self!!??! YEAH!!! Shop LOCAL!!

My Boxwood Hedge

Boxwood hedges are broadleaf, evergreen upright shrubs. They can be pruned into a formal shape, or grown in a tightly informal fashion. The growth shape of a boxwood hedge depends on the species. They can range from only a foot tall to twenty feet tall. Most species of boxwood hedges grow very slowly, often less than one inch per year. Some boxwood hedges grow in a spherical shape, while others are more upright and slender.

A boxwood hedge, being an evergreen, will provide greenery and protection year round. The thick covering of leaves on a boxwood hedge gives the impression of a continuous surface. Boxwood hedges can easily live up to three hundred years old or more. There are blooms on a boxwood hedge in the spring, but the flowers are very small, and have little visual interest.

While boxwoods will grow in full sun, they prefer a partially shaded location. Fertile soil is not essential but it should be limed to a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Avoid windy sites such as a corners of buildings or crest of hills. Winter sun and wind will cause the foliage to turn yellow-orange or bronze. A well-drained soil is essential to avoid root diseases. Boxwoods should not be planted near drain spouts or areas that tend to stay wet.

Hedges will often overgrow their allotted space and need to be trimmed regularly. The best time to perform pruning of a hedge or other shrubbery is early spring. Branches should be left on through the winter months since shrubs store energy in their wood. Pruning encourages new soft growth that is susceptible to frost damage, so hold off trimming your boxwoods ’till late spring if you plan to do hard pruning; light tip pruning can be done any time.

As plants go, I love boxwood! My boxwood hedge borders the walk (in three sections) from the front/side of the garage to the back of the house. I don’t trim my boxwood hedge as regularly as I should, so it’s always a ‘major’ effort when I do. Why didn’t I take ‘before’ pictures??? You can see evidence of its former size (overflow) from the lack of grass/dead grass at the edging.

If you’re not confident with your trimming skills, you may want to stake a line (height and width?) and place a drop-cloth to catch trimmings for easy clean-up…but, I do neither! I just ‘eyeball it’.

A hedge should be trimmed slightly narrower at the top to allow light to filter to the area below.

Boxwood adds year-round garden interest… as it’s evergreen (doesn’t drop its leaves thru winter).

I used an electric hedge trimmer and a pair of hand-trimmers for the really large/thick branches.

BTW, my back porch is still a work in-progress… we’ll be installing the screens soon!

…and, since I had the trimmers out and at-the-ready, I also trimmed my 20-something year-old, not-so-dwarf Alberta Spruce. They were planted at the corners of the garage as focal points (remember to add vertical interest in the garden).

Now, trimming a dwarf Alberta Spruce gets a bit tricky! I took a nip-and-tuck approach…

It’s best to trim new growth/tips just to ‘shape’ and trimming back to ‘wood’ will not re-grow!!! These plants have outgrown their space, but will survive a few more years??

There’s never a lack of gardening chores…enjoy the great outdoors!

Enjoy fresh-picked rhubarb!

Growing-up, we always enjoyed fresh-picked rhubarb from the garden! Most often we had a simple rhubarb sauce and occasionally served it with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Rhubarb strawberry pie is a great combo!

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) is a cool season, perennial vegetable, grown for its leaf stalks that have a unique tangy taste used for pies and sauces. Rhubarb was first cultivated in the Far East more than 2,000 years ago. It was initially grown for medicinal purposes, and not until the 18th century was it grown for culinary use in Britain and America.

Rhubarb requires winter temperatures below 40 degrees F to break dormancy and stimulate spring growth; and summer temperatures averaging less that 75 degrees F for vigorous vegetative growth. The tops are usually killed in the first heavy freeze in the fall, but roots survive and produce new tops the following spring. While the stalks are edible, the leaves themselves are poisonous (they contain oxalic acid) and should NOT be eaten.

It is most commonly stewed with sugar or used in pies (strawberry rhubarb is very popular) and desserts, but it can also be put into savory dishes or pickled.

Rhubarb root produces a rich brown dye similar to walnut husks. It is used in northern regions where walnut trees do not survive. The oxalic acid in the leaves also act as a natural mordant.

Rhubarb Crisp:

Cut about one dozen stalks (about 4-cups) of rhubarb and remove leaf (great nitrogen source for the compost bin). Wash and cut stalks into about 1/2-inch pieces. Place about 4-cups (or more if desired) into baking casserole dish. Add 2-tablespoons water and 2 tablespoons tapioca (optional), 2/3-cup sugar and 1/2-teaspoon salt.

Topping:

In another bowl, add/mix together 1/2-cup granulated sugar, 1/2-brown sugar, 2/3-cup flour, 2/3-cup old-fashioned oatmeal. Cut-in 7 tablespoons margarine or butter and with pie pastry blender, mix until coarse…should be crumbly.

Spread half of mixture on top of rhubarb (place the rest in a freezer bag and store for next time!). Bake in 350 degree F pre-heated oven for about 45-minutes, until topping is golden brown around edges and ‘fruit’ is bubbly. Cool on wire rack before serving!

Enjoy the weekend!

Mayday Mayday Mayday

May 1st, often called ‘May Day’, may have more holidays than any other day of the year. It’s a celebration of Spring, a day of political protests, a saint’s feast day, a neopagan festival and a day for organized labor. In many countries, it is a national holiday!

photo courtesy University of Missouri

Maydaybaskets3-rhythmofhome_rect540

photo courtesy apartment therapy

Mayday is ALSO an emergency procedure word used internationally as a distress signal in voice procedure radio communications. It is derived from the French venez m’aider, meaning “come help me”.

photo courtesy Millers Field

It is used to signal a life-threatening emergency primarily by mariners and aviators, but in some countries local organizations such as police forces, firefighters and transportation organizations also use the term. The call is always given three times in a row (“Mayday Mayday Mayday”) to prevent mistaking it for some similar-sounding phrase under noisy conditions, and to distinguish an actual Mayday call from a message about a Mayday call.

A mayday situation is one in which a vessel, aircraft, vehicle, or person is in grave and imminent danger and requires immediate assistance. Examples of “grave and imminent danger” in which a mayday call would be appropriate include fire, explosion or sinking.

My MAY DAY was a little of all of the above! Let me begin with a lambing update: three of my prego Shetland ewes have lambed (from a week ago Tuesday, last Friday and most recently, this past Tuesday). First and foremost, all mom’s and lambs are doing well!

First to lamb, Bella and her triplets!

Next, Dove and her twin ram lambs!

This past Monday, my prego ewe Serendipity, showed the familiar tell-tale ‘signs’ of impending birth… ALL.DAY.LONG. Before nightfall, I decided to put her in the barn (in a small make-do stall called a lambing ‘jug’). I believed she would be ‘safe’ without being disturbed by the other girls and I could more easily monitor her progress. By 10 p.m. and still anxious that she had not yet lambed, I decided to sleep/spend the night in the barn with her – just in case she required any assistance (pleeeeeze don’t require any assistance!!)!

My woman’s intuition did not disappoint. At approx 11:20 p.m. and 11:45 p.m., Sara gave birth to twin ewe lambs (a totally textbook perfect lambing!). YAY! Just short of MAYDAY arrivals! HAHAHA

Serendipity (Sara) and her day-old lambs!

As I own a very small spinner’s flock of Shetlands, I have one more ewe, Reese, yet to lamb. So, stay tuned… for further updates.

In the meantime, the milking ‘girls’ are doing well and their bucklings are growing by leaps and bounds. The boyz are as sweet and mischievous as little boys tend to be!! Anyone looking for a loving buckling/pet wether?

Oberhasli buckling at two weeks.

HEY! This stuff isn’t as good as mama’s milk!

Goats on parade…

Between playing (ahem) and checking-up on new mamas and babies, I’ve been cleaning more stalls than I care to…AND milking goats, making cheese again, working in the garden – STILL planting – and stealing a few minutes here and there to work on a growing backlog of fiber projects!

Happy goat family!

Hope you have a great weekend and enjoy family! BTW, Saturday I’ll be dyeing in the kitchen at Metroparks Wolcott Farm’s Sheep Shearing Saturday! Come and have some farm fun!

Insight into an early-American herb garden.

It is hard to imagine anything more pleasing to the senses than an herb garden on a sultry summer day. A soft breeze catches the evocative scent of lavender as you brush along-side. The tang of citrus laced with mint reveals lemon balm. A sprawling mat of thyme rests alongside a neat and orderly arrangement of sage, feverfew and chives. The heady scent of basil, king of the herb garden, attracts the lazy buzzing of bees. The herb garden is a feast for the eyes and offers respite for the mind and soul!

As idyllic as it may sound, an 18th-century colonist would almost certainly never have sought out the earthly delights of an herb garden to while away a lazy summer afternoon! The cultivation of special plants was essential for housekeeping: flavoring the food, dyeing, scenting and dosing – including remedies to treat tummy-aches, female complaints AND treating the sick hog or an ailing horse!

The segregation of herbs to special beds in specially-designed, artistic layouts is relatively a modern garden conception.  It was far more likely that herbs were incorporated into the family vegetable plot in an nformal, cottage-style garden located just outside the kitchen. Some thought would have been given to those plants which would thrive year after year (perennials) and those which would require resowing every year (annuals); big-rooted plants would have been kept away from more delicate plants with shallow roots.

It was far more prudent for the colonial gardener to have arranged things so she could put her hand on whatever she needed instantly — something to staunch bleeding, freshen a drink, flavor a stew or lend a neighbor in time of need. No colonial household would be without an herbal — a reference so important it was often kept, along with a bible, within quick and easy reach. Three herbalists 17th and 18th-century gardeners relied upon were Gerard, Parkinson and Culpeper. The 18th-century gardener would have been familiar with mint, lemon balm, lavender, thyme, yarrow, lovage, lamb’s ears, garlic chives, sage, rosemary and santolina (or lavender cotton).

My flea market find: Brook’s Family Herbal, c.1852

Mint (mentha), perennial

Then: Gerard describes mint as “a marvelous wholesome for the stomacke…it stayeth the hicket [hiccup]…is good against watery eyes and a sure remedy for children’s sore heads.” Parkinson touts mint boiled with “mackerell and other fish” and its use, when dried, “among pease that are boyled for pottage.” Culpeper tells us mint would dry up excess milk in nurses and, taken in wine, would help women in childbearing.
Now: Mint has various culinary uses – flavor sauces, jelly, syrup, teas and drinks. It repels mice and insects. As a health and beauty aid, it’s used in skin care products and for oily hair.

Another flea market find: The Life and Adventures of Mrs. Anna Kremer, c.1871

Lemon Balm (melissa), perennial

Then: Lemon balm, according to Gerard, is good against “the bitings of venomous beasts.” The juice “glueth together” green wounds. Parkinson advises lemon balm steeped in ale against “suddaine qualmes or passions of the heart” while Culpeper notes it will break boils and expel the afterbirth.
Now: Kitchen uses include teas, wines, liqueurs, vinegars, and in fruit salads and fish dishes. Lemon balm may be added to potpourri and furniture polish.

 Lavender (lavendula), perennial

Then: Gerard found the distilled water of lavender “virtuous,” whether it be “smelt unto or the temples and forehead bathed therewith.” Parkinson noted lavender’s use in perfuming linen, apparel, gloves and leather, while Culpeper found this herb useful for falling sickness or giddiness of the brain.
Now: Lavender is baked into cakes, cookies and muffins; used to make jellies, teas and vinegars. In the home, it is added to potpourri and bouquets and used as an insect repellent.

Thyme (thymus), perennial

Then: According to Gerard, there was almost nothing thyme could not cure: “It bringeth downe the desired sickness, provoketh urine and applied in bathes it procureth sweat; being boyled in wine it helpeth the ague, stayeth the hicket, breaketh the stones in the bladder; it helpeth lethargie, frensie and madness and stayeth the vomiting of bloud…is good against the wambling and gripings of the bellie, ruptures, convulsions and inflammation of the liver.” Culpeper noted that thyme was good for worms, warts, and dull sight.

Now: Thyme is known as the “blending herb” for its ability to pull flavors together. Cooks use it in salads, stews, soups, sauces, meats, eggs, vegetables and cheeses. In the home, it is a disinfectant and insect repellent. As a health and beauty aid, it may be used for skin care, dandruff and hangovers; remedy for soar throat.

 Yarrow (achillea), perennial

Then: Yarrow’s leaves, according to Gerard, close up wounds and staunch bleeding. The whole plant — especially the flower heads — served as a natural dye. Culpeper tells us that a decoction of yarrow, used to bathe the head, “stayeth the shedding of hair.”
Now: In the home and garden, yarrow attracts beneficial insects and speeds composting, old-time medicinal and dye plant.

Lovage (levisticum), perennial

Then: Gerard found that distilled water of lovage “cleareth the sight and putteth away all spots…freckles…and redness of the face if they be washed therewith.”
Now: Lovage, an old pot herb, is used in salads and salad dressings, soups, stocks, stews, cheeses, sauces and to roast meats. Its celery-like leaves (and scent) may be added to bouquets. Medicinally, it is a diuretic and useful in treating cramps, urinary tract infections and wounds.

Lamb’s Ears (stachys byzantina), perennial

Then: Lamb’s ears, though little has been written about it, was used to dress or bandage wounds–the wooly leaves used in place of lint. The textured leaves could also be used as a washcloth.
Now: Silvery lamb’s ears are used in dried arrangements and nosegays.

Garlic Chives (allium), perennial

Then: Garlic was considered a preservative against pestilential air. Gerard noted it aids women who sit over it in a bath, cures ringworm and scabbed heads. Culpeper found garlic chives good for the falling sickness but bad for those “oppressed with melancholy.” He noted that cumin seeds or green beans chewed after eating garlic removed the disagreeable smell from the breath.
Now: Garlic’s use is well known in the kitchen. In the garden, it serves a ‘natural’ spray against insects and plant disease. It is thought useful in treating colds, flu and for reducing blood pressure and cholesterol.

Sage (salvia), perennial

Then: Gerard found sage “singular good for the head and braine; it quickeneth the senses, strengtheneth the sinewes…and cleanseth the blood.” Pakinson touted its use “for teeming women, to helpe them the better forward in their childbearing.” Culpeper tells us sage was useful against snakebite and would turn hair black.
Now: Sage is useful in digesting rich foods. It may be added to vegetables, meats, eggs, breads and vinegars. In homekeeping, it is an antiseptic cleaning solution.

Santolina(santolina), perennial

Then: According to Gerard, lavender cotton “drunke in wine was good against the poysons of all serpents and venomous beasts.” Parkinson placed it into “baths, ointments or other things used for cold causes.” And Culpepper found it resisted “poison and putrefaction” and was “good against worms … scabs and itch.”
Now: Santolina is used most often as an ornamental in knot gardens and as an edging plant. In the home, it may be used in floral arrangements or potpourri and has been found to repel moths.

Rosemary (rosmarinus)

Then: Gerard tells us that the distilled water of rosemary, drunk morning and evening, “taketh away the stench of the mouth and the breath.” Parkinson notes its “civill uses…at weddings, funerals, etc., to bestow among friends.” And, according to Culpeper, “to burn the herb in houses and chambers correcteth the air in them.”
Now: Rosemary flavors meats, vegetables, eggs, cheeses and marinades. It may be added to potpourri or used to make an antiseptic cleaning solution. Medicinally, it is used in skin care, as a hair rinse, for sore throat, muscle and joint pain, wounds and bruises.

Perhaps you’ll add a few herbs to your garden?

Resource: Historic Camden County.com

A week in review…

Time flies when you’re having fun…or not?

SPRING is undoubtedly the busiest time of year on the farm…shearing, lambing, kidding, gardening, planting and so on! So much has happened since my last post and I do apologize for not ‘sharing’ sooner. That’s probably one of the benefits of facebook; little snippets of news communicated/shared relatively simply with a few key-strokes!

To all my faithful followers, a brief recap. We began the week with our monthly 4-H goat project meeting – in the barn – with my two dairy goats who were now overdue (beyond the norm average 150-days gestation).  We talked about the development of an udder, loosening of pelvic ligaments and BEHAVIORAL  signs of early stages of the birthing process such as act of withdrawal, seeking seclusion from the rest of the herd, uneasiness, kicking, pawing the ground, lying down and getting up frequently, frequent attempts at urination, refusal of grain, vocalizing, and so on.

Since my 4-H goat project kids are all new first-year goat owners, we also talked about visible signs of second stage labor including vaginal discharge, uterine contractions, appearance of the water sac and finally the evidence of a foot exiting the birth canal. All thought, oh, how exciting! But, in reality, the responsibility as goat caretaker and overseer to the blessed kidding (or lambing) event can be a bit daunting!

Finally, the long-awaited and imminent kidding arrived! Early Sunday evening (long after my 4-H families had departed), Coriander went into labor and delivered two bouncing baby bucklings (ie boys). Buckling No.1, for the most part, was delivered normally…albeit, a bit of straining by Corey to get the head/shoulders through the birth canal. Don’t get over-anxious to assist… proper dilation of the cervix needs to occur. otherwise tearing/damage may occur. The ability to recognize kidding difficulty is as important as proper technique in relieving dystocia (or, difficult birth). It is wise to prepare yourself with some kidding knowledge either through research/reading or by visiting a friend who may also be lambing/kidding, IF you find yourself in a position to lend a hand with the birth!  Occasionally, in some situations, a gentle downward ‘tug’ on the legs with the next strong contraction is helpful. Another valuable resource for newbies and kidding/lambing info can be found at: http://www.infovets.com//books/smrm/C/C460.htm

As for Buckling No.2, it soon became evident – it helps to know your goat anatomy –  that he was NOT in the proper presentation (but normal position and posture). Terms to know: presentation, position and posture.  He was coming backward (breech), back legs first, dewclaw visible and hock (recognize the difference between the bend of the knee or the bend of the hock).

Diagram courtesy kinne.net

To make a long story short, all ended well with our two dairy goats’ kidding season. Finally, Cassiopeia, a first freshener, gained confidence through Corey’s kidding ordeal and decided she was up to the challenge! She delivered a single large healthy buckling on Tuesday morning, day 154. Moms (does) and kids are all doing well and thriving! Phew! I’m glad all ended well and I’m back into the routine of milking my girls twice a day. Our bucklings (or wethers) will be looking for new homes once they’re weaned!

With the help of Katie, my nurse assistant, Big D ‘the holder’ or gorilla (he has yet to contruct a kidding box for me…hint hint) and myself ‘the meanie’ (the one holding the disbudding iron), we disbudded the bucklings on Saturday, an unpleasant but necessary task. FYI – All goats typically have horns (both male and female; some goats are naturally/genetically poled/hornless) and most dairymen disbud (or have their vets perform the disbudding for them) their goats within several days – weeks old. Find more how-to disbudding info here.

Besides animal husbandry, I’ve also been busy working in the vegetable garden. More cleaning & trimming woody plant and pruning shrubs & roses. I also planted more leaf  lettuce, radish, spinach, beets, carrots, swiss chard and parsley – all can withstand ‘cooler’ weather.

Weeding between pavers – ugh!

Temporarily cat-proofing the planting bed!

The sweet peas are several inches tall and the strawberries have blossoms!

Potatoes and kholrabi have yet to be planted. Tender annual herbs (such as basil and cilantro), zucchini & green beans will be planted from seed in a few weeks.

My French tarragon (not Russian tarragon which is an annual.

Cut cut cut… to maintain a fine tender & tasty chive!

Tomatoes and green peppers (tropicals) will be the last to go into the garden, typically after Memorial weekend for minimal chance of damage by late frost.

More cat-proofing planting bed until seeds germinate!

Sage, HEAVILY pruned a couple weeks ago shows re-growth.

Did I mention my Shetland sheep have been shorn and their wool skirted and already processed into roving and batts? Now we begin the waiting game, looking for clues and signs that parturition (birth/lambing) will occur soon. Unlike the goats that are hand-bred, we house the ram with the ewes for several months for breeding to occur. We don’t always ‘observe’ the actual breeding (but, there are breeding harnesses that the ram can wear that ‘marks’ the ewe when she’s been mounted). According to my calendar, my ewes could lamb any time now…!

Naked sheepies!

I ended the week with speaking to a group of gardeners about the wonderful benefits of herb gardening, then rushing home to help a friend with skirting her wool fleece and how to ‘process’ it at home.

…and finally, we mucked-out one of the lamb sheds, right down to the dirt floor, limed it heavily and prepared it with fresh clean straw!

That about covers the week’s highlights…and then we start all over again with the never-ending list of chores! There’s no excuse for boredom!!! Hope you have a great week!

Get up, get growing…and get your Spring on! Please join us at the Capac Historical Society Museum on Saturday, April 21, 2012! Thinking about adding a few herbs to your garden? You’ll learn simple how-to! Also, learn about hard-working HONEY bees!

Preparing for Shearing Day

Photo courtesy Australian Wool Innovation, Ltd

Shearing sheep is a job that’s normally done once (sometimes twice) a year. Preparing your facilities and flock will make the job easier on everyone involved! For the novice shepherd, a few helpful tips:

The Sheep

Sheep must be dry to be sheared! Sheep with wet wool – including dew and/or frost – should NOT be sheared.

Sheep should be held off feed and water at least eight hours before shearing. The flock should never come straight off pasture to be sheared. Grass and hay may build-up gas and possibly back-up into the lung area during shearing and cause what is called ‘a gasper’. If the animal is not put on its’ feet right away, it could die of suffocation.

If possible, stained wet wool and manure tags should be removed before sheep are penned. Avoid penning sheep in dirty pens or bare concrete floors.

White-faced, white wooled sheep should be sheared first; dark-faced/colored wool sheep (light to dark) last.

White wool and colored wool should not be packed in the same bag. Typically, for the small shepherd, bag each fleece individually, with a name tag for easy identification.

To properly ‘skirt’ a fleece before packing, the wool should be placed cut side down on a slotted surface (to remove second cuts). Any vegetable matter (VM), manure or urine stained wool should be removed. Leg and face clippings should also be removed. The shearer should have already removed the belly wool when shearing.

After skirted and cleaned, the fleece should be folded lengthwise, a third over a third, then the other third folded over the top and then rolled from the tail to the head before being packed. If possible, pack in burlap bags; plastic bags should be stored out of direct sunlight to avoid condensation.

BARN/Facilities

Plan to provide adequate adult helpers to keep the job moving. A clean, flat level surface (approx 8 X 8 feet) with lots of head room, good lighting and ventilation is best for the shearer to work on. A sheet of plywood or rubber mat makes a good working platform. If extension cords are necessary, heavy-duty cords to carry the load are recommended.

Keep the shearing area swept clean when necessary.

Keep a small pen filled and at the ready for catching sheep for the shearer. Sheep chased around a large pen/pasture before coming to the shearing floor will continue to fight while being sheared (and waste the shearer’s time).

No shearer deliberately cuts a sheep! If you wish to put disinfectant on any nicks or cuts have your spray bottle handy before shearing starts. The shearer is not going to hold a sheep for ten minutes while you try to find your spray bottle.

Have sufficient help to take the sheep from the shearer and do your foot trimming, vaccinations and worming after shearing (most shearers will assist the small shepherd, if requested). 

Happy fiber’n!