A Natural Dye Garden – Plant to Dye Pot – Part I

Natural Dye Day

Early dyers relied on easily obtained natural materials to add color to their textiles.  Natural dyestuffs come from flowering plants, bark, fungi, lichens, insects, shellfish and various ‘earths’.  Dye materials can be gathered at most times of the year, used fresh or dried.  The amounts of natural dyestuffs required to dye protein fibers are not very precise because so many variables are involved in natural dyeing.

Dyestuff: cochineal

What’s the appeal of dyeing with plants?

♦ An ancient craft, rich history, sustaining old traditions

♦ The beauty of natural colors

♦ Simple pleasure of tending a dye garden

♦ Enjoyment of gathering leaves, flowers, and other natural materials

♦ The alchemy ‘magic’ and unpredictability of plant dyestuffs

♦ Unique, one-of-a-kind results

Dyestuff: apple leaves.

Guidelines for choosing natural dye plants to grow

◊ Consider annuals and fast-growing perennials

◊ Grow plants that provide interesting color, especially blue & red

◊ Grow plants that are inexpensive – that you don’t mind chopping up

◊ Grow plants & herbs that you’d want in the garden anyway

◊ Consider potential yield of the dye plant, especially if your garden space is limited

◊ DON’T grow plants that are considered weeds that you can gather from vacant lots or along the roadside (with the owner’s permission of course!)

◊ Be responsible; avoid invasive or endangered species

◊ Use common sense and safety practices; some natural dyestuffs can be TOXIC!

Dyestuff: dahlia

A few natural dye plants

Most common colors from plants are yellows and tans; a true green is almost impossible to achieve from a single plant dye – most is achieved by overdyeing.

 – Rhododendron, leaves

– Clematis, leaves

– Asters, flowers                                

– Dahlia, flowers         

– Zinnia, flowers                    

– French marigolds, flowers & leaves

– Pot Marigold/Calendula

– Hibiscus/Rose of Sharon

– Coreopsis, flower heads

– Sunflower, flower heads

– Hollyhock, flowers

– Yellow Cosmos, flower heads

– Rudbeckia/Black-eyed Susan

– Yarrow, flowers

– Tansy (very invasive)

– Purple Basil

– Rosemary

– Comfrey

Dyestuff: madder

Natural dye WEED plants

– Queen Anne’s Lace (wild/domestic carrot)

– Goldenrod

– Purple Loosestrife

– Common Yarrow

Dyestuff: french marigold

Historically significant natural dye materials

– Madder (Rubia tinctorum), roots harvested in their third year – red (‘Turkey Red’)

– Brazilwood (Caesalpinia), heartwood sold as wood chips or shavings – red

– Cochineal (Coccus cacti), insect bodies which live on the prickly pear cactus – red

– Saffron, pistils of autumn crocus- yellow

– Safflower, petals; requires long, hot summer– yellow and red

– Logwood, heartwood sold as wood chips or shavings – purple

– Lichens – purple and red

– Shellfish – purple

– Indigo, leaves contain indigotin, insoluble in water; tropical/sub-tropical growing conditions – blue

– Woad, (biennial) leaves harvested during first year; mustard family, 2-3 ft tall; “weed”? – blue

– Weld/Dyer’s Rocket (Reseda luteola), leaves & flower stalks – yellow

Dyestuff: goldenrod

There’s so much more to talk about…

Part II – Mordants, assistants, dye bath variables

Part III – Equipment, preparing a dye bath, dye process, recordkeeping, resources